Bike Preparation

Our bike preparation requirements are very simple and generally do not take more than 10 or 15 minutes to complete.  For the most part, all we require is that you have a clean, tight motorcycle in excellent condition.  No "rat" bikes, please.

With track day mornings being very busy, we encourage anyone not riding to the track to prep your bike beforehand.

NOTE:  All CAMERAS, GPS, Laptimers, etc must have a HARD TETHER to the bike.  This can be a bolt, safety wire, or zip tie.  SUCTION CUP, or STICKY TAPE does NOT QUALIFY.

All items such as this must pass tech inspection.  You will receive a special sticker at tech.  If you don't have a sticker and attempt to go out with a camera, etc... you will be sent back to the pits.

 -   OIL FILTERS:  All "SPIN ON" type oil filters must have a HOSE CLAMP around it.  A "spin on" filter is one that is outside of the motor (see photo below).  Hose clamps are readily available at any auto parts or home improvement store for a couple of bucks.  Simply place the clamp over the filter and either rotate the hose clamp so it cannot loosen (by wedging it against the motor)... or put a piece of wire on it and pull it in the TIGHTENING DIRECTION.   

We require this because some people don't properly tighten their oil filters after changing.  And the high RPM riding at the track can cause them to loosen and put oil all around the track (not to mention your back tire!).   Once someone "oils" the track, it can close the track for many hours.  :-(

Putting a hose clamp on cost virtually nothing and takes only a minute to do, so we now require it.

If you are uncomfortable putting a hose clamp on your filter, bring the clamp
to the event and ask for help from one of the TTD workers. 
Please do this BEFORE going to tech inspection.

-  If your oil filter is enclosed in the motor, then we urge you to wire the bolt holding it in, but it is not mandatory.  But PLEASE make sure it is tightened properly. 

NOTE:  If you have a K&N filter with a drilled nut at the end, you can simply wire the nut (in place of a hose clamp)

- Oil Drain Bolt:  At this point, we are not requiring the OIL DRAIN bolt to be wired, but again... make sure it is properly tightened and torqued to spec. 

- MIRRORS:  Your mirrors must be removed, or completely taped over.

- BRAKES / BRAKE PADS:  All motorcycles must have 2 working brakes - front and rear.  Please be certain to check your brake pad thickness.  Most brake pads have a groove cut into them.  When this groove disappears, you are dangerously low on pad material.  Personally, I change my pads when they lose about half of their thickness.  On most bikes, you can shine a flashlight and determine pad thickness.  If not, then you'll have to remove the caliper.  Your life truly depends on your front brakes... take the time to ensure the pads and calipers are in perfect condition.

- TAIL LIGHTS:  No light can show through the tail light when the brakes are applied.  Many bikes have a single connector under the passenger seat area that can be unhooked, thus shutting off power to all rear lights and blinkers.   You could also remove the bulb or fuse.  And finally, if you prefer to not disable the lights, then you can put tape on the lens.

- HEAD LIGHTS:  If your headlight is made of glass, as opposed to plastic, then it must be taped.  The tape can be placed in large X's.  It does not have to fully cover the lens, but is designed to keep it from shattering.  We recommend disabling the headlight to keep heat down.  Many bikes have a simple connector that can be unplugged, or you can remove the fuse.  We don't require full taping of plastic headlights because they are easy to pickup if they break. 

-  TIRES:  Tires must be in EXCELLENT condition with plenty of tread remaining.  If you are at or below the "wear indicators", please change them BEFORE track day.  We offer complete PIRELLI tire service at all events and can put on new tires the evening before your trackday.  Please PRE ORDER to ensure the tires are waiting for you.

-  CHAIN or BELT:   Must be in EXCELLENT condition with no signs of rust or degradation. If shaft drive, there must be no leakage or obvious signs of poor maintenance.

-  THROTTLE:   Must SNAP BACK to the off position when released.  If trailering your bike, we recommend that you DO NOT tie it down by the handlegrips, as this is one of the main causes of sticking throttles.  The ideal method is to use the upper triple clamp (the thing your forks slide through).

- COOLANT:  At this point, we do not require that you replace your coolant. However, if you have a "track only" bike, we strongly encourage you to consider this step.  Regardless of water or coolant, take a moment to check all the hoseclamps and other connectors involved in your cooling system to ensure they are tight.

- OLDER BIKES:  If your bike is more than 15 years old, email me with the bike info and a photo and I'll make the determination.  Again, the focus here is to ensure the bike is in excellent condition with no leaks of any kind.

- MISCELLANOUS: 

If your license plate is not on a large, plastic background, then you must remove it.  Basically, if there are any sharp edges exposed, then please remove it.

Finally, make sure that all  fasteners (body hardware, brake caliper bolts, etc.) are properly tightened.  Physically go around the bike, and put a wrench or screwdriver on EVERY nut, bolt and screw you can find.   Pay special attention to your Oil Drain Plug, Oil Filter, Levers, and Exhaust brackets.

  
The NH track has a 99dBa sound limit at all Track Day events.  Most sport bikes... even with a reasonable aftermarket pipe... should be fine.   However, if you know your bike is ridiculously loud, you should probably change the pipe.   NO REFUNDS will be given if NHMS officials do not allow you to ride.     And if your bike is very loud, it may give the track owners a reason to test everyone!  So please... do ALL motorcyclists a favor and keep the noise in check.